09/22/2026
Which one have you tried?
The order never changed. A quarter pound of this, a half pound of that, sliced so thin you could read the newspaper through it, and the man behind the counter always handed a slice over the top of the case to whichever kid was standing there.
That was the Saturday errand. And the tray that came out at Christmas was built from exactly those packages, laid out in rings on the good platter with the olives in the middle, and it sat on the table before anybody was allowed to touch it.
Here is what was actually on that tray, and where it comes from.
Capocollo is the neck and shoulder of the pig, salted, spiced, stuffed into a casing and hung to dry for months. In Calabria it goes in with chili. In Puglia, around Martina Franca, they smoke it lightly over oak. Up north the same cut gets called coppa, and the people of Piacenza will tell you theirs is the only real one.
Prosciutto is the back leg, salted and hung for a year or more with nothing else added. Parma is sweeter, San Daniele softer, and both are just pork, salt, air and time. Culatello is the heart of that same leg, b***d out and aged in the damp river fog near the Po, and it is the most expensive thing on this board by a distance.
Guanciale is the cheek and pancetta is the belly, and they are not the same thing. Anyone who has made a proper carbonara knows the cheek renders differently and the dish is not the same without it.
Bresaola is the outsider here. Beef, not pork, cured up in the mountains of Lombardy, lean and dark. Speck comes from Alto Adige where the Alps begin, so it is cured and then lightly smoked, which no southern salume ever is. Finocchiona is Tuscan and you can smell the fennel before it reaches the table. Nduja from Calabria is not sliced at all. It is soft, it is spread, and a teaspoon on warm bread is plenty.
And mortadella, the real thing from Bologna, is nothing like the pink slices in a plastic pack. It is slow cooked, delicate and perfumed, and the pistachios are a choice, not a rule.
Most of us are not choosing by region though. We are choosing by memory. The one the grandfather sliced himself with his own knife. The one that only came out when somebody important was coming over.
So which one is yours.