04/30/2025
Is a critic’s job to review, or to reveal?
This week, the Times finally gets around to Bridges, the buzzy downtown restaurant that has, in their words, “been overflowing with It-people and It-hype from the moment its doors opened in Chinatown last September.” Perhaps their wait was justified: as Melissa Clark writes, “a critic likes to lift the veil on new finds, not just hit the ‘like’ button on a viral smash.”
And yet, as readers: don’t we want – nay, deserve – to know whether that viral smash is worth our dining dollars?
At last, we find out, and the verdict is overwhelmingly positive: “…this glamorous hot spot was in fact just a front for a piercingly intelligent and original restaurant, with a kitchen whose dexterity and finesse handily outshone the dining room’s influencer flow.”
Wowza. (Good luck getting a reservation now.) Enjoy the full review at the free gift link here.
Under all the hype and beautiful-people veneer, Bridges is full of surprises, starting with an imaginative, globally inspired menu.