02/26/2017
Funeral Sandwiches
The Funeral Sandwich is the ultimate achievement of Funeral Cuisine. Those of us who love them do so unashamedly. Cut into triangles of ham, salmon or egg salad, nothing else finishes a solemn occasion quite like a Funeral Sandwich. While we wouldn’t, literally, die for them, we can’t imagine life without them.
Every Saturday evening PBS and host Eric Corbett bring you inside this iconoclastic gastronomic movement. From the festive wakes of Northern Ireland to the ritualistic cremations of India, Eric has exclusive access. He brings you the sights, the sounds and, most importantly, the tastes of modern mourning:
“It’s for the love of this superlative sandwich that I here set pen to paper. A copy of the obits sits soggy with my tears. Famished, I choose to call on “Fred” at Knox Presbyterian at noon. This particular establishment’s servers have taken to heart that “Grief doth a burning hunger make.” We smile at each other as I enter because we all know that I’m not one of the truly bereaved: I’m just here for the food, and that’s ok.
“I know Fred only in passing, which is to say we are just now getting acquainted. Of course, I don a countenance of weighty dejection as I console his family and friends. My inner hunger belies my outward gravity, however. My stomach groans louder than a starved church-mouse at a crumb convention. I grow impatient as, sadly, we sit through almost an hour of accolades for the fashionably late son of a bitch. It will all be worth it, though: I know that as soon as I smell the coffee …
“Indeed, the caffeinated scent of Maxwell House and Red Rose wafts through the church basement as we say grace. The pickle trays stand ready. The hard-boiled eggs are sliced and dusted with paprika. The cheeses are arranged in order of sharpness and, somewhere in the rafters, the church-mice smack their lips in anticipation. One of them directs a conspiratorial wink my way. Patience, my little friend; our diabolical plot will come to nutrition – oops, I mean fruition.
“The Reverend ends his prayer with a call to fellowship. I smile at the blue-haired couple seated next to me, and offer as to how so many have lost so much this sad day. Apparently, they knew Fred during his former life as a union brother in Local 6-6-3. They inquire as to my affiliation with the deceased, and I feign being too overcome with emotion to answer. The husband puts his hand upon my hunched shoulder, and I continue boohooing while eyeing the butter tarts on the dessert table.
“My editor, Burns, works the far side of the room. Bedecked in black, he affects a woeful pallor as he inconspicuously tucks sandwiches into his coat pockets. He thanks the Reverend for his inspirational words – his moving celebration of Fred’s life. He’s the Eddie Haskell of our organization. A true funeral sandwich connoisseur… So fake … so bereft of conscience ... He just about makes me cry. I can’t help but mist-up a little when I read his inscription in The Register: “Fred, old and dear friend, do not go hungry into that goodnight.” Har de har har … “
This Saturday, Eric and Company journey through the Southern United States, the bastion of the Religious Right. There, they attend the interment of “Cletus”, whose rites of passage embrace the joys of catfish, crawdads, country music, and Mississippi mud-pie. In the face of loss, saccharine sincerity and ersatz sadness carry the day. The truth is in the food. Let’s see which of the boys can secret the most sandwiches upon their person without offending the pall-bearers. It’s a posthumous, heaping-helping of Southern Hospitality. Hillbillies, that is. Sit a spell. Take your shoes off. You all come back now, ya hear?